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Hi everyone

Welcome to this edition of your Gardening Weekly, today's edition is entitled:

Frost Damaged Plants

QUOTE: If seeds in the black earth can turn into such beautiful roses, what might not the heart of man become in its long journey toward the stars?
- G.K. Chesterton

The appearance of wilting leaves, and leaves that have a water logged look can be a sign that your plant is suffering from frost damage.

Another sign of frost damage can be the appearance of brown patches on the leaves.  Other signs are shown when the shoot tips on your plants start to die back.  If the flowers on the plant don't open fully or they become discolored and then start to die off, then these are also signs that frost damage might have occurred.

Website Of Interest. Check out the following:
http://blog.mygardeninghome.com/plants.html

There is no treatment for frost damage other than to remove the damaged portions of the plant in an effort to make it look a little healthier. Provided the damage hasn't been too severe you might not lose the plant.

Sometimes frost damage is not noticeable for a few days after a frost has occurred and this is particularly so if the frost was a very light one.

The best way to protect against frost damage, or to reduce the effect that frost might have on your garden is to choose the best plants for your climate conditions.  If you are living in an area that is susceptible to frosts then your best course of action is to choose plants that are frost-tolerant.

By planting in areas that are exposed or where frosts occur more frequently you will increase the chances of losing plants to frosts so it is wise to plant in sheltered spots or areas other than where there are frost pockets.

You can offer some protection to your plants by wrapping them in Hessian cloth or frost cloth until after the period of frost has passed.

There will be times in such climates where it is not possible to know when there will be a frost and these out of season frosts can kill a whole plant.

Website Of Interest. Check out the following:
http://blog.mygardeninghome.com/plants.html

Thanks,
Annie
My Gardening Home Blog

Yes, I know we have another two months of cold and possible frosts, but I’ve already begun to think about the spring overseeding project I’ve set up for myself. As I pointed out last summer, fall is the best time to overseed a lawn, …

Source: Nancy & Jeff

Green crocs. Green crocs. It has been ridiculously nice the past week. A little chilly at night (we've had a couple frosts, unfortunately) but sunny and breezy during the day. So, I started my garden. I planted: [photos 1 and 2] some …

Source: Jo

Spring is just around the corner. Have your herbs gotten the news? As the snows melt, or the frosts ease, plants receive a number of signals. The ground will warm, the soil will become more porous and let in more air, and the number of …

Source: Jennifer

Now that summer is well and truly over in the northern hemisphere and autumn is in full swing, here are a few tips for things you can be doing in the garden now all the leaves have fallen, the nights have closed in and the bbq is all packed away.

When clearing away the spent stems of summer bulbs, why not mark their position with a pebble or a short piece of cane?  That way you will know where they are when you start to work on the border next spring.  

As I said, the days are now a lot shorter and the nights have turned colder, which all means there is now a danger of hard frosts that can damage garden taps. Why not use some foam tap covers or put bubble wrap around each tap?  You can then seal them with a plastic bag  for protection. Also, If you have pipes that are exposed to the elements, why not lag them for protection?

Containers intended to stand outside should be brought into the shade and protection of a building, which will mean they are less likely to spall or burst in frost. You should also store your precious pots empty, dry and under cover.

Collect the fallen leaves in perforated bin bags to turn into leaf mould.  You need to make sure they are thoroughly wet when you put them in and soak with a hose if necessary. If they are packed dry, they will never rot properly. 

Always remember you should turn your houseplants on windowsills.  This will help to keep an even growth. Water them less; winter growth is rarely desirable.

It may be cold and it obviously rains more often than not, but try to keep mowing the lawn, but not too short and cut above the moss. Make sure air vents in the grass box are not clogged or the mower will struggle to lift the clippings into the box.

So, that little lot should help to keep you busy now the winter is well and truly on the way.

Happy gardening!

The Gardener

Hi everyone

Welcome to this edition of your Gardening Weekly, today's edition is entitled:

Succulents

QUOTE: In my garden there is a large place for sentiment.
My garden of flowers is also my garden of thoughts and dreams.
The thoughts grow as freely as the flowers, and the dreams are as beautiful.
- Abram L. Urban

To ensure that your succulents get the very best in growing conditions, particularly if you are growing them in pots, you will need to buy good quality specially formulated succulent mix.  This is generally the same type mix that you would also use for growing cacti.

Slow release fertilizer will help them to remain healthier by supplying them with necessary nutrients throughout the year and the best time to give them this fertilizer is in spring.

They will grow better when exposed to the full sun as they don't like frosts.  Over the summer months you will need to give them sufficient water and that will generally be once or twice a week.

Website Of Interest. Check out the following:
http://blog.mygardeninghome.com/plants.html

Over the winter months they should get enough water to only need watering once a month.  Obviously you will need to adjust this depending on the climate they are growing in but that is a general guideline to follow.

When you water your succulents you should avoid wetting their foliage.

They are fairly maintenance free and can add color to pots where you are growing larger trees.  They also make a nice looking ground cover that will reduce the amount of weeds depending on the type of succulent you choose.

Placed in multi colored pots, succulents can look quite impressive with contrasting colors in designer gardens and courtyards.

They are excellent for smaller pots where they can add color and life to patios and decks provided they get sufficient sunlight.

They make an ideal plant for the busy apartment dweller where there is only minimal outdoor area and not enough room for larger plants.

They can also withstand winds that might damage other plants grown in these conditions.  They are the ideal plant to have in window boxes and come in many different varieties, colors, shapes and sizes.

Website Of Interest. Check out the following:
http://blog.mygardeninghome.com/plants.html

Thanks,
Annie
http://blog.mygardeninghome.com

Hi everyone

Thought this article was interesting, plus I love chillis, so hope you find it interesting and helpful too! It also discusses other "exotic" type vegetables like pumpkins, aubergines and squashes.  Hmm!

Climate change may eventually mean we [in current temperate climates] can sow and grow more exotic vegetables outside.  It is now possible, at least in some more southern areas of the UK, for example, to already do this.   Vegetables such as peppers and aubergines, and even tomatoes, still need a little assistance by being sown under cover.  For those without a greenhouse, a heated propagator should provide the alchemy for germination; failing that, a sunny windowsill will do.

Sweet peppers and chilli peppers both need temperatures of at least 20 degrees C and lots of light to do well.  They will grow outside in sunny, sheltered spots in mild areas, but their yield is far better when raised under glass - you must wait until October for your first outdoor grown pepper. The hotter the chilli, the longer the growing season, although "Ring of Fire" is an early variety that should blow the roof off your mouth.  "Pinocchio's Nose" is an excellent variety for making hot sauces; "Marconi Rosso" is a good sweet variety.

Aubergines are very susceptible to frost and appreciate lots of light.  In the south of England for example, yo can grow them outside, in a pot or in the ground, but don't expect a large harvest.  Otherwise, keep them under glass.  They like high humidity so put a bucket of water beside them, or mist regularly.

Get going on the sowing, in a gentle heat of 20C, as they have a long growing season - and plant outside when all danger of frost has passed.  "Moneymaker" has good purple skin and a high yield.

Melons need plenty of space.  The best varieties to grow in a temperate climate are the cantaloupes, with greyish skin and pale green or orange flesh.  They can be grown outside in warm areas, where temperatures average between 25-30C, but are best in an unheated greenhouse or a cold frame.  When planting out, warm the soil first with a cloche or fleece, then protect young plants from slugs.  Plants can either scramble across the ground or can be trained up shoots, in which case large maturing fruits should be supported in a net to stop them dropping off.

Sow in late April-May and plant out in June on a slight mound, which will help to prevent the plant from rotting.  Good varieties are "Ogen", Hales Best Jumbo" and "Sivan".

As well as traditional sweet corn, you can also grow "supersweet" (which have more sugar) and coloured varieties that, with their luscious growth, look good planted among your flowers and borders.  The supersweet "Sweet Nugget" is delicious and "Red Strawberry" is excellent for popcorn.

Plant in blocks rather than lines, as this give maximum exposure for wind pollination.  Don't plant different varieties near each other, as they will cross pollinate and be less successful.  Earth up the stems (i.e. mould the soil around the plant with a rake or hoe) as the plants grow tall to consolidate the roots and prevent wind rock.

Pumpkins and squashes are wonderfully decorative in the late summer garden.  They like a fertile , moist soil - you can even grow them on the compost heap.

Summer squashes can be eaten small, whereas pumpkins and winter squashes store well and are useful vegetables over the winter.  The sun hardens the skin, which helps them to store well.  Like melons, they can be trained up supports or left to grow across the ground.

So about a month before the last of the frosts is usually due in your area, if under cover - usually April or May, otherwise, directly into the soil in early summer if you live in a warmer area after all danger of frost has passed.

Best varieties are "Custard White", a summer squash, "Turk's Turban, a lovely green and orange striped winter squash with pale yellow flesh and "Baby Bear", a small sweet pumpkin.

I hope you enjoyed this article which was reproduced from The Sunday Times (London)

The Gardener