May 4, 2007

Fruit and Veg Gardening :: RE: How come my pepper seeds never …

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Author: the666bbq Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 1:54 pm (GMT 0) peppers can be picky on how they get started. This year I bought a heated propagator to be able to start early in the season. Since I live in a not too hot climat (but we are

Source: the666bbq

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March 15, 2007

Hard at it in the Greenhouse

I've been spending time sowing seed recently but as I only have one small heated propagator I tend to do so in batches every couple of weeks. A few are happy just to be sown in pots in the greenhouse: Sunflower Prado Yellow, …

Source: ukleaderplantman

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March 22, 2007

10 Seed-Starting Tips

Read the Fine Gardening eLetter Fine Gardening FineGardening@e.taunton.com 10 Seed-Starting Tips How a practiced propagator gets seedlings off to a healthy start by Adrianna Vargo Few gardening pursuits are as rewarding as growing and …

Source: willem van cotthem

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May 11, 2007

Garden people - Scotsman


Garden people
Scotsman, UK - 1 hour ago
Griffith, who turned to gardening as a way of coping with the loss of her husband in 1916, went on to be a keen collector and propagator of alpine plants

Source: "gardening" - Google News

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February 26, 2007

Growing Chillis

Hi everyone

Thought this article was interesting, plus I love chillis, so hope you find it interesting and helpful too! It also discusses other "exotic" type vegetables like pumpkins, aubergines and squashes.  Hmm!

Climate change may eventually mean we [in current temperate climates] can sow and grow more exotic vegetables outside.  It is now possible, at least in some more southern areas of the UK, for example, to already do this.   Vegetables such as peppers and aubergines, and even tomatoes, still need a little assistance by being sown under cover.  For those without a greenhouse, a heated propagator should provide the alchemy for germination; failing that, a sunny windowsill will do.

Sweet peppers and chilli peppers both need temperatures of at least 20 degrees C and lots of light to do well.  They will grow outside in sunny, sheltered spots in mild areas, but their yield is far better when raised under glass - you must wait until October for your first outdoor grown pepper. The hotter the chilli, the longer the growing season, although "Ring of Fire" is an early variety that should blow the roof off your mouth.  "Pinocchio's Nose" is an excellent variety for making hot sauces; "Marconi Rosso" is a good sweet variety.

Aubergines are very susceptible to frost and appreciate lots of light.  In the south of England for example, yo can grow them outside, in a pot or in the ground, but don't expect a large harvest.  Otherwise, keep them under glass.  They like high humidity so put a bucket of water beside them, or mist regularly.

Get going on the sowing, in a gentle heat of 20C, as they have a long growing season - and plant outside when all danger of frost has passed.  "Moneymaker" has good purple skin and a high yield.

Melons need plenty of space.  The best varieties to grow in a temperate climate are the cantaloupes, with greyish skin and pale green or orange flesh.  They can be grown outside in warm areas, where temperatures average between 25-30C, but are best in an unheated greenhouse or a cold frame.  When planting out, warm the soil first with a cloche or fleece, then protect young plants from slugs.  Plants can either scramble across the ground or can be trained up shoots, in which case large maturing fruits should be supported in a net to stop them dropping off.

Sow in late April-May and plant out in June on a slight mound, which will help to prevent the plant from rotting.  Good varieties are "Ogen", Hales Best Jumbo" and "Sivan".

As well as traditional sweet corn, you can also grow "supersweet" (which have more sugar) and coloured varieties that, with their luscious growth, look good planted among your flowers and borders.  The supersweet "Sweet Nugget" is delicious and "Red Strawberry" is excellent for popcorn.

Plant in blocks rather than lines, as this give maximum exposure for wind pollination.  Don't plant different varieties near each other, as they will cross pollinate and be less successful.  Earth up the stems (i.e. mould the soil around the plant with a rake or hoe) as the plants grow tall to consolidate the roots and prevent wind rock.

Pumpkins and squashes are wonderfully decorative in the late summer garden.  They like a fertile , moist soil - you can even grow them on the compost heap.

Summer squashes can be eaten small, whereas pumpkins and winter squashes store well and are useful vegetables over the winter.  The sun hardens the skin, which helps them to store well.  Like melons, they can be trained up supports or left to grow across the ground.

So about a month before the last of the frosts is usually due in your area, if under cover - usually April or May, otherwise, directly into the soil in early summer if you live in a warmer area after all danger of frost has passed.

Best varieties are "Custard White", a summer squash, "Turk's Turban, a lovely green and orange striped winter squash with pale yellow flesh and "Baby Bear", a small sweet pumpkin.

I hope you enjoyed this article which was reproduced from The Sunday Times (London)

The Gardener

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March 2, 2007

Growing Orchids In The Home

Hi everyone

Welcome to this edition of your Gardening Weekly, today's edition is entitled:

Growing Orchids In The Home

Orchids are not as difficult to grow as you may think. By following some simple guidelines you too can be successful and with their beautiful, sometimes fragrant but long-lasting flowers, the reward can be magnificent.

Success with growing orchids is making sure you choose the type of orchid that suits the conditions of your own. The following is a little introduction to help you choose the correct type and care for them.

Both "Paphiopedilum" (mottled leaf type) and "Phalaenopsis" are perfect for growing in the home. Place in a well lit spot (not not in direct sunlight) and a minimum temperature of 16C (60F) with a rise of 6C (10F) in the day. Stand the pot on a tray of gravel that is kept moist. During the summer months, keep the temperature below 32C (90F).

"Cattleya", "Miltoniopsis" and "Zygopetalum will all thrive given a minimum temperature of 13C (55F) with a rise again of 6C (10F) in the day. Place in a shaded spot and stand the pot on a tray of gravel that is again kept moist as this will maintain the humidity. During the summer months keep the temperature below 29C (85F).

"Odontoglossum", "Odontioda" and "Cymbidium" will be happy in a heated conservatory or glasshouse with a minimum night temperature of 10C (50F), with a rise of 6C (10F) during the day. During the summer months, keep the temperature below 27C (80F). Place out of the direct sunlight and stand the pot on a tray of gravel. Can you see a pattern forming here? ;-) To encourage flowering, place your "Cymbidium" in a shady spot outside during the summer months.

Let's look at compost a little. Most orchids that grow in the home are those that live as "epiphytes (grow on trees). They therefore require a free drainage compost made with bark and perlite. Once your newly bought plant has finished flowering it is advisable to re-pot into fresh compost. Remove the flowering spike at the base, remove all old compost and re-pot making sure the compost surrounds all the roots. Do not over pot. Most orchids will only need re-potting every couple of seasons.

With regard to watering, if you can, collect rainwater and use this to flush through the pot placed over the sink. Allow the compost to dry between watering. Remember orchid roots so not like standing in water.:

Now, feeding… From March to October orchids can be fed using a diluted growing feed (divide the recommended rate by 10). This can be flushed through the compost every other watering.

Some other facts about orchids:

  • There are estimated to be 20,000 species of orchid around the world.
  • Orchids occur on every continent except Antarctica.
  • 80% of the world's orchids live in the tropics. Most of these orchids live above ground on trees and are termed "epiphytes".
  • Orchids have adapted to grow in nutrient poor places.

To find out more about an excellent guide to growing orchids simply visit our page at Growing Orchids.

Bye for now!

The My Gardening Home Blog Team

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