February 26, 2007
Growing Chillis
Hi everyone
Thought this article was interesting, plus I love chillis, so hope you find it interesting and helpful too! It also discusses other "exotic" type vegetables like pumpkins, aubergines and squashes. Hmm!
Climate change may eventually mean we [in current temperate climates] can sow and grow more exotic vegetables outside. It is now possible, at least in some more southern areas of the UK, for example, to already do this. Vegetables such as peppers and aubergines, and even tomatoes, still need a little assistance by being sown under cover. For those without a greenhouse, a heated propagator should provide the alchemy for germination; failing that, a sunny windowsill will do.
Sweet peppers and chilli peppers both need temperatures of at least 20 degrees C and lots of light to do well. They will grow outside in sunny, sheltered spots in mild areas, but their yield is far better when raised under glass - you must wait until October for your first outdoor grown pepper. The hotter the chilli, the longer the growing season, although "Ring of Fire" is an early variety that should blow the roof off your mouth. "Pinocchio's Nose" is an excellent variety for making hot sauces; "Marconi Rosso" is a good sweet variety.
Aubergines are very susceptible to frost and appreciate lots of light. In the south of England for example, yo can grow them outside, in a pot or in the ground, but don't expect a large harvest. Otherwise, keep them under glass. They like high humidity so put a bucket of water beside them, or mist regularly.
Get going on the sowing, in a gentle heat of 20C, as they have a long growing season - and plant outside when all danger of frost has passed. "Moneymaker" has good purple skin and a high yield.
Melons need plenty of space. The best varieties to grow in a temperate climate are the cantaloupes, with greyish skin and pale green or orange flesh. They can be grown outside in warm areas, where temperatures average between 25-30C, but are best in an unheated greenhouse or a cold frame. When planting out, warm the soil first with a cloche or fleece, then protect young plants from slugs. Plants can either scramble across the ground or can be trained up shoots, in which case large maturing fruits should be supported in a net to stop them dropping off.
Sow in late April-May and plant out in June on a slight mound, which will help to prevent the plant from rotting. Good varieties are "Ogen", Hales Best Jumbo" and "Sivan".
As well as traditional sweet corn, you can also grow "supersweet" (which have more sugar) and coloured varieties that, with their luscious growth, look good planted among your flowers and borders. The supersweet "Sweet Nugget" is delicious and "Red Strawberry" is excellent for popcorn.
Plant in blocks rather than lines, as this give maximum exposure for wind pollination. Don't plant different varieties near each other, as they will cross pollinate and be less successful. Earth up the stems (i.e. mould the soil around the plant with a rake or hoe) as the plants grow tall to consolidate the roots and prevent wind rock.
Pumpkins and squashes are wonderfully decorative in the late summer garden. They like a fertile , moist soil - you can even grow them on the compost heap.
Summer squashes can be eaten small, whereas pumpkins and winter squashes store well and are useful vegetables over the winter. The sun hardens the skin, which helps them to store well. Like melons, they can be trained up supports or left to grow across the ground.
So about a month before the last of the frosts is usually due in your area, if under cover - usually April or May, otherwise, directly into the soil in early summer if you live in a warmer area after all danger of frost has passed.
Best varieties are "Custard White", a summer squash, "Turk's Turban, a lovely green and orange striped winter squash with pale yellow flesh and "Baby Bear", a small sweet pumpkin.
I hope you enjoyed this article which was reproduced from The Sunday Times (London)
The Gardener




















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